almost new Type 2's

Rummaging through my big box of purchased diesel & electric photos, I found these two shots of Brush Type 2's early in their careers. At first I didnt notice the background in this shot:

but it could be York Station. If it is, then I might have stumbled across a picture of D5511, either on its way to or back from Scotland! The loco is certainly virtually brand new , so there is a good possibility. A shame you cant quite make out the number :-(

The second shot I dont know the location (possibly Cambridge, or Norwich ?) but it shows one of the few production batch locos, D5555 which had headcode discs fitted, at a time when other members of the class were being built with headcode boxes, a sort of transition period

 The loco is a bit grubby, and there is not yet a yellow warning panel,  so shot possibly taken around 1960-3.

Mc Brush

Doing some 're-researching' of class 31 information (i've forgotten most of what I learnt ages ago!), I was going through the allocation history of the pilot batch of 20 locos, D5500-19.

I had a vague memory of a 31 on trial in Scotland, and there it was,  D5511. The first of its' type to visit the country, when virtually brand new. Delivered to Stratford in June 1958, it almost immediately went on holiday to Scotland , going on loan to Inverness (June 58) Eastfield (July) Edinburgh St Margarets (July) and back to Inverness (July), where it stayed for two months until it returned home to Stratford in September 58.

So you could legitimately have a brand new Brush Type 2 running on your scottish layout, I suppose. 

Photos of the loco whilst sampling the scottish delights would appear to be quite rare.

I think I read somewhere that the ScR wouldnt allow diesels with three or four axles per bogie on many lines because of track and or tyre wear.  I expect this might have been through experiences gained with the trial of D5511 possibly.  In any event it didnt stop the Scottish region running quite a lot of Class 37's in later years, and to virtually every corner of the region.

Class 30/31 roofs

Brian Daniels has an excellent collection of detail photos of Locos on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/brianews/sets/72157626899029003/

these are his class 31 shots. He has very kindly allowed me to use a couple to illustrate the different types of roof arrangement found on 31's, over the engine bay. 

 

The loco on the left is preserved D5600, and it can be seen that the central 'catwalk' section is removable; the loco right is preserved 31101, and the catwalk section forms an integral part of the whole roof section over the engine bay.

What I dont know is if the style on the right is how they were all built, then some were later modified to the style on the left, or whether it was a design change introduced from a certain loco onwards.

Even If i did know the answer, it's clear that my Triang TT 31's will need some extra work, as there are none of the gaps around the edges of the opening flaps, the whole area of roof is modelled as 'solid'. The answer may be to cut out the sections and mount them onto like a subframe, I'll need to have a think about that...

diversion

Another occasional dabbling is the alteration of 4mm scale model buses to try and make them a bit more authentic.

I did a lot of research/work on destination blinds a few years ago, because this is one aspect where manufacturers and code 3 producers fail miserably ; most of what they come up with is just amateur guesswork. The concept of multiple number blind rollers is alien to them.

A long-term project for a friend is back on the burner. The ABC models Volvo Ailsa model is reasonably good, but the front end is a horror story. Completely wrong size and shape upper front windows, wrong size destination box amongst some of the faults. Removal of the windows/blindbox glazing piece, allows you to cut the blindbox part off. This part is way too small in the casting aperture, so I made a new blindbox from plastic card which is a tight fit ; once it's perfect fit I'll make a rubber mould and cast a load in resin to alter other models. I'd already done the artwork for the blinds (it will be for a West Midlands PTE example) but originally they were to fit the ABC destination box 'as it comes', so they were scaled down to fit accordingly. Now everything is the right size, except for being fractionally too short and shallow overall. Best that can be done without filing the metal casting. Still need to alter shades of grey and black to make everything stand out that should, but its not far off. I test printed the ones seen in the pic onto Crafty Inkjet transfer paper, varnished, allowed to dry then fitted.

As can be seen in the pic, the lower saloon interior was the wrong layout to represent a WMPTE bus (the two seats behind the bench seats over the back wheels were facing forwards, they should face back. I cut them off, turned them round and lengthened the bench seats to suit, making sure everything lined up with the windows properly.

Well, just a few things put right, but there's a stack more you could do, as ever it's deciding how far to go, gauged against how long it takes. 

Class 31 Motor Bogie

The motor bogie used in the Triang class 31 model is generally speaking pretty 'robust', but as with everything it does seem to have an 'achillies heel'. This being the plastic moulding which the magnets fit inside, it also carries the small posts which the motor brush springs hook over, and has a nut/bolt coming out of the top which is used to fix the motor bogie to the body moulding.

I've had four 'duff' non-runner 31's for a while, but never got as far as finding out why. So today I had a look and found three of them, the aforementioned plastic moulding has broken, where the small posts fit (so the springs arent doing their job keeping the motor brushes in position) , and the fourth one has suffered from an extreme case of motor overheating by the looks of it, as it has shrivelled up dramatically, causing the phosphor bronze pickup assembly to become mis-aligned and losing contact with the wheels.

I'm hoping this plastic moulding is available as a spare part still,via the Society.

You can see in this shot one of the two small posts which the brush spring fits over, has broken away from the plastic moulding. An intact moulding is alongside, it's unfortunate that the area where these posts fit is very small and vulnerable to breakage.

Class 30/31 roofs

Something I'd not noticed before whilst trawling for class 30/31 roof photos- there appear to be two different styles of roof panelling.
The main difference is in the area above the engine, where the four opening roof hatches are. On some examples the central roof 'catwalk' (six strips of metal ribbing fixed to the roof) is an integral part of that section of roof, whereas on others the catwalk area seems to be removable, with attendant slight differences in the ribbing positions.
I consulted all the class 31 plans/drawings I know of and none show two styles; in fact I don't think any of the drawings is right in many respects; none of them show for instance that the roof reaches forward into the cab dome on one end. One of them portrays the boiler exhaust port as being round.


What I need to know is whether the roof differs in detail on a '31/0' (D5500-19) to the main production batches. I'm also not sure if the difference mentioned above on the production examples is a modification in later life, or whether they were built like it. Typically I can neither find a good enough roof shot of a 31/0 early on in life, nor a good shot of preserved D5500. You can find pics looking from above but the loco is always too far away to make out the details. Ah well, I'll have to keep on searching. I've still got a stack of diesel books to go through, some of the Bradford Bartons had good detail shots so I might be lucky there.

Guinea Pig

I've got two or three items of rolling stock which have been bought very cheaply in the past because of the general state they were in; one of these was a Triang class 31 which looked like it had been left too close to a hot lamp, and the roof was warped and a bit melted here and there. It looked terrible but ran superbly.

Not being a very good or confident modeller I like to try things out sometimes to see how things go before taking the plunge properly. To this end the 31 has recently been subject of some experimenting. I have various tins of Humbrol No.3 gloss, which I think was 'Brunswick Green' in their old railway colour range before it bit the dust, and most of the colours ended up in the main range with different names and finishes. To my horror when trying the various tins, I found three distinctly different shades of No.3- no doubt this can be put down to early difficulties after Hornby's takeover of Humbrol and the moving of paint manufacturing to China. One side of the 31 is now multic-oloured green (!) and I have labelled the tins to save any future confusion

.

Something I also have been meaning to do for a long time is put headcode boxes on a 31, so following some notes in an old edition of the 3mm society's 'Mixed Traffic' magazine, I made the plastic card frames for the boxes and glued them on; just need to fill the void to bring it level with the roof and make some headcode box transfers. Not before drawing the letters and numbers though, as they were 'freelance' and not a standard typeface- a fact lost on most transfer manufacturers.

Lastly I've never been keen on the shallow look of the boiler exhaust port on the roof; I shaped and glued a  large block of plastic square rod on the underside of the roof below the ports' position, and drilled out the aperture, and down through the block. I filed it out to shape, then bit by bit filed the block down so the roof sits down flat on the webbing between the bodyside where the motor bogie attaches. This way you can get the aperture as deep as possible.

The pic gives an idea of the mods, and now I've got the method I'll feel more confident and less guilty in butchering a 'pristine' 31 :-)

You can see the differences in the greens on the side of the cab,and the side of the body.

If I can find a suitably fine mesh, I'd like to replace the radiator fan grille, and maybe fit a fan below- that will be interesting trying to find a small propeller (maybe off a model boat, who knows?) I know I don't fancy trying to make one!

Triang 31

A long time ago I started a project to upgrade a Triang TT Brush Type2, and as usual never finished it. When the kittens (five of them!)  were growing up, one day there was a mad rampage around the bedroom knocking everything in sight flying and ending up with the usual shredded net curtains. One casualty was a box which had the 31 in it, and unfortunately the window frame area around both cabs got broken off. 

I found it out the other day, and after testing whether ordinary plastic card would successfully bond to the 31 body (I wasn't sure what sort of plastic they might have used) I decided it could be repaired. So after gluing  some scrap bits of plastic on (using Mekpak, it's stronger than Plastic Weld) and leaving to set hard overnight, I managed to rescue the body. Which is just as well as I spent a lot of time reprofiling the buffer beam areas, and filing out the grooves either side of the cab doors where the handrails fit.

Another mod was at the rear end of the cab area, the model as it comes doesn't have a curved edge where the cab roof steps down to the top of the bodyside. Fortunately filing a bit off the body, and adding a bit to the roof puts this right easily and it makes quite a difference to the looks:

Above, the modified 31 with recesses for the handrails, grooves scribed in around the cab door, modified cab/roof, and deepened bufferbeam (which still allows clearance for the Triang tension lock coupling). I think the bodyside skirting between the bogies (where it is deeper) could also stand having a bit added on without the bogies fouling.

Other jobs are to scribe a line around the nose end connecting doors, drill the holes for the end handrails, and scribe the lines around the engine room access door on the bodysides; A few minor alterations to the roof 'catwalk' ribbing may also be needed. Finally I'll need to study the skirting area closely as there are a few details which are missing on the model.

I then have to decide on a livery and identity (probably the hardest job of all-I never can make my mind up!) I found two pics on Flickr of blue 31/0's with their TOPS numbers applied to the bodyside behind the cab doors,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deadmans_handle/4344827701/in/pool-1487948@N25

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brianews/5768603969/in/pool-1487948@N25/

a very short lived thing- but I'm trying not to stray too far into the 'BR Blue' era, as I much prefer green (and black!) diesels.

Scalescenes

Card modelling is enjoyable, therapeutic even sometimes, and if you model in an 'odd' scale (like 3mm) probably one of the few ways of getting any buildings or structures on your layout. What a wonderful resource we have then in Scalescenes.com.

a great range of kits and modelling aids primarily aimed at 2mm/4mm modellers; easily downloaded and paid for in just a few clicks.With your printer set to print at 75% 3mm versions of the 4mm sheets look just fine. And you can print out as many times as you like, or need to in my case after making a few cockups. With a bit of thought and imagination, and by using the sheets of plain brick or stone in various textures, alterations and modifications can be made to the basic kits to produce something unique.

I decided to have a go at the Footbridge (ref. R007); this can be made in numerous configurations, to span as many tracks as you like- the PDF file as supplied gives you one stairway and one bridge span, so when youve decided what you want, just print off as many copies as you need. 

I used cardboard from Tea Bag boxes for the medium weight, and cat food pouch boxes for the thicker weight (needed to make the stairs) , though next time for these I would use plastic card to get better defined edges. Having said that, the slightly smoother rounded edges do give the impression of  old and well worn down stone.

 Looking forward to finishing it and posing it on the 'layout'.






 

Brush Type 2 exhausts

A long time ago I started to 'upgrade' a Triang Brush Type 2 ('class 30, 31') and got so far with it - then either got fed up, sidetracked, or otherwise and never finished it.

I found it today in a box and thoughts are turning to doing something with it now. I did lots of research back then but have forgotten most of what I learnt so am starting again.

I always had a feeling that when the Type 2's were re-engined from Mirrlees to English Electric units, that the exhaust ports on the roof got altered, but I could never find any conclusive proof. Over the years I've bought many books and mags with '31's' in, so I dug them all out and went through them all, along with a lot of photos I'd bought. 

Sure enough I found two pictures to prove the exhausts were different. This montage pic shows the difference:

 

Mirrlees above, EE below- the latter narrower and wider, and although not obvious in this shot, mounted on a plate which covered where the Mirrlees one was previously.

 The Triang model, given when it was released- much the same time as when the real thing was introduced, is meant to depict the Mirrlees exhaust layout, though they didnt quite get it right, the hole where the smoke comes out should be offset, plus it's pretty 'flat', it should stand quite proud of the roof.

Quite an easy task to put it right,as I want a model in 'as built' condition.I think some of the central 'walkway' ribbing on the roof isn't quite right in places (need to study more photos) but on the whole the roof is pretty accurate.

COUPLERS

About ten years ago I built quite a few 3mm Society plastic wagon kits, but never got as far as fitting the Triang style tension lock couplings. Now I've got some modelling time, and after a major reorganization and tidy up, I unearthed all those never finished kits.

I started on a box of PP43's (BR 12ton van,plywood sides) then remembered just why I probably didn't finish them ages ago. If you just glue the bar (which the coupling fits onto) behind the headstock on the wagon, the coupling height is wrong. I don't think I ever worked out what needed to be done to correct this back then, but after a bit of measuring with the digital vernier I worked out, on this wagon at least, there needs to be a 0.5mm packing piece between the bottom of the van floor, and the bar the coupling fits onto.

I altered the first one, fitted the couplings and put it behind a Triang 31 on the track. Except it wouldn't fit on the track- because when I made these wagons I intended to do 14.2 finescale, but have since changed my mind and do 12mm now. A quick re-gauge of the wheels and the 31 was happily trundling its way around the 'layout' along with a couple of Conflats. 

Now I've got the space and the time, what was originally going to be the layout along one wall (12.5 feet long, and 27 inches wide) will probably end up going around all the walls of the room. For now a double track  dog-bone scheme will have to do - at least I've got something to run trains on instead of always building stuff and never seeing any action!

 

MAROON, MAROON, OR MAROON

Will the real Maroon please stand up. This shot taken at Loughborough on the GCR, shows three Mk1 coaches all painted in different shades of BR Maroon. Long time painted ones are a much deeper 'blackberry' shade, whereas more recent paintjobs are a distinctly lighter more 'cherry' colour. Mischievous people might say they are the same shade as they use for their 'crimson' on the red and cream repaints....

But, these different shades of maroon are probably only reflecting how it was 50 years ago;

consult any book with colour shots taken back then and you will find quite an array of maroons,  ranging from very 'pink' shades, through 'browns' to virtually 'purples'. Obviously on some shots the passage of time has affected the negatives/slides, and the various makes of film recorded colours differently; even so you cannot argue when you can see several dinstinctly different shades in a rake in the same shot. I think this goes to show, despite official instructions, that the colour of maroon varied from BR Works to BR Works, and also from outside contractors.

So I suppose it means you can paint your models in any old shade of maroon (Humbrol 19, even?) and get away with it!

It doesn't only happen at Loughborough, you can find different shades  being used at Shackerstone

Here 4939 is behind Griddle Car 1104, which although faded is quite a different shade.

When it comes to model paints, those which were/are available as BR Maroon (Cherry,Southern Pride,Phoenix,Railmatch) were all virtually identical, being the darker 'blackberry' shade;  Bachmann Mk1's dont match up, and curiously the shade Lima used is very close to the shade you see in the vast majority of colour pictures- they obviously went ot a lot of trouble to try and get it what they thought was 'right'.

Another Kitmaster conversion

Also featured in a 1960's Model Railway Constructor was a set of plans for the Southern Region's 4TC trailer sets,which  usually ran  in conjunction with a Class 33 loco. Missing out on green livery, the 4TC's were some of the first things to appear in allover 'semi-matt' early BR Blue livery, which was quite a few shades different (lighter) than the later colour used - a much deeper green/blue shade - although it soon weathered down to look more blue like.

Recalling the class 309 Clacton Express EMU's were uniquely painted in maroon coaching stock livery, I remembered seeing a 'preserved' 4TC set at The Midland Railway Centre at Butterley last year, also in maroon livery. A bit of research revealed it wasn't just preservationists 'wishful thinking'  which resulted in the unit being painted this colour, but that it had been used in some capacity on London Underground (probably specials, tours etc) and it was meant to be in the London Metropolitan Railway maroon scheme.

The 4TC (and earlier short-lived 3TC sets) are more possibilities for Kitmaster coach conversions; A relatively straightforward job with again the most work needed on the driving cars; These cars had the later  smoother cab ends and didnt look quite so 'utilitarian' as those that had been built previously. 

4TC set DTSO no. 76298

 

A challenge

This would be quite a challenge- a 3mm model of BR Mk1 3083, one of the experimental coaches, with lots of small side windows. Resident on the Severn Valley Railway, it has variously carried red & cream, chocolate & cream, 'fake' varnished LNER teak, and nowadays BR Maroon. Despite a quite recent repaint is doesnt seem to get used very often, along with 1883 the 'Bar' coach.

Seen here at last years diesel gala, being hauled by 'Slug 6'  (37906)  uncharacteristically not blotting out Kidderminster with clouds of black smoke (not that there's anything wrong with that....)

A couple of unlikely pairings hauling trains could also be seen: 14 and 42

and double headed 08's....

The 3mm Society

A timely reminder about the 3mm Society.

Founded in 1965 to cater for all those modelling in 3mm scale, from Triang TT to the scratchbuilder. Well worth the membership fee, indeed some would say worth the money for the excellent Society Magazine alone.

Considered by many to be the ideal scale, it is just unfortunate that there is no current British prototype ready-to-run trade support. Those who lack space for 'OO' gauge, and find 'N' gauge too small often turn to 3mm, especially the active modeller who is not afraid of,and is prepared to 'have a go' at, making kits and scratchbuilding things.

You could have a train running around in no time using secondhand Triang TT stock, just to get you started and keep the interest up until you get up and running properly. In a couple of weeks you could have a rake of Society wagon kits trundling around behind a Jinty or a class 31.

Visit the world of 3mm at the Society Website:

 http://www.3mmsociety.org.uk/

Also for those interested in 3mm: 

Worsley Works, 600 etched kits in 3mm also Loco kits

 http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/ 

3SMR, vast range of 3mm products

 http://www.3smr.co.uk/

Finney & Smith, many ueful bits and pieces,

plenty of kits including Judith Edge BR Shunters

http://finneyandsmith.co.uk/finneyandsmith/index.htm

BRUCE SMETHAM CLASS 37

Managed to miss the Postman just before the bank holiday, he left a card saying there was a 'Tube' to collect. I couldn't think what it was so collected it today (the earliest after the holiday I could).  A nice surprise when I got it, my eagerly awaited Bruce Smetham Class 37. I'd seen the Plastikard master for this model at the Kingsbury meeting a few months ago, and ordered one straight away. They were ready at the AGM, but I didn't make it this year, so Bruce kindly posted it on to me.

It's a one piece body cast in cream Polyurethane resin, with extra castings in resin for the fuel tanks, and in white metal for bogie cab steps, bogie sideframes and OLEO buffers.

The body represents the first series of class 37 as built, with split headcode boxes and buffer fairings, the centre headcode version of this model will appear later.

As can be seen it's quite a faithful representation of the prototype with all the essential detail there. The various contours and shapes, of which there are many difficult ones to capture on a 37 are very well done. The tumblehome at the bottom of the bodyside being particularly hard to get right given it starts to change profile just under the cab door steps, becoming vertical at the nose ends.

Motorization is possible using one of the Co-Co etched brass chassis kits available via the Society shop, though no doubt there are other ways of doing it.

All in all the best 3mm class 37 to date and very good value for money.

Mk.1 COACH ROOF VENTS

Modellers of Mk1 based stock will find at least three different types of roof vent that were used. These were (L-R) the Shell, Scallop, and Ridged Dome varieties illustrated here:

In 3mm scale it would appear that no one makes a 'scallop' type, which is a shame as there are a heck of a lot of them used on Mk1s.

Fortunately the Prototype 4CEP units seem to have used mainly the Ridged Dome type.

An example of one of these can be seen in this pic:

4CEP ROOF DETAIL

Gathering ideas together of my own and other members of the 3mm Society, I did a trial of different combinations of materials to represent the roof conduit/wiring and associated fixings found on the roofs of the cars of a prototype 4CEP unit.

Top is a 16BA flat washer, with a Markits N gauge handrail knob, with 0.47mm  brass wire;

Next is a 2.3mm plastic card disc (15 thou) with Slaters plastikard rod, drilled to take 10 thou Plastruct plastic rod;

Then, a 2.3mm disc (15 thou) with Slaters plastikard rod drilled to take Plastruct  20 thou plastic rod; Finally 2.3mm disc (15 thou) , Slaters Plastikard rod drilled to take brass 0.4mm  wire. The ridged dome roof vent  gives something to compare against to gauge which one looks about right. It's easy sometimes to make something which is very small, too big without realising it.  I think I prefer the bottom one, although the 2.3mm disc will need to be a smaller diameter still ( havent got that far yet...)

despite being N gauge the handrail knob looks way too big!

 

 

Limonene

In the past I've had difficulty successfully gluing largish areas of thin ( 5 or 10 thou) plastikard together. Using something like Plastic Weld, it evaporate so quickly, capilliary action is minimal, with quite a bit of the surfaces to be joined not being reached by the glue. Continuous applications trying to get the glue to penetrate usually end up with a stick gooey mess which wrinkles up. Other brands like MaGer and MekPak aren't quite so thin, still evaporate too quickly and are a bit too powerful to use with larger areas of thin plastikard.

By chance the other day whilst searching for something else, I came across a product I'd not heard of before 'Limonene'. Described as a mild solvent, it looks like it could be useful.

Painting it on it stays wet, so you should be able to paint one or both surfaces of the card and join them together before it starts to disappear. It works very slowly gently melting the surfaces together. With this in mind you might need to clamp things on curved surfaces while it sets. I'm looking forward to trying it out properly. It's got a really strong fruity smell too, the cats werent too impressed!
One thing though, that damned child proof top has got to go. I always get rid of them on solvent bottles, as you really need to keep putting the top back on to stop the glue evaporating away (especially in warm weather). These tops are just a nuisance.

Beware Limonene is not cheap -  £6.00 (UKP) for 100ml, I got mine from Hobby Holidays in Doncaster

(by post).

http://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=LIMONENE

CUSTOM SANDERS

Workers in small modelling scales often come across situations where something needs to be sanded, but a needle file is too big risking damage to unwanted areas, and trying to use wet and dry paper in very confined or localized areas is very difficult.

Making a custom sander to suit your specific situation is one answer. Using anything handy, a strip of wood, or plastic cut to size and shape, just superglue on a piece of wet and dry paper whichever grade is appropriate to the job and away you go. When the w'n'd is worn out just glue another bit over the top.

I made this one using an old plastic paintbrush handle, with 400 grade paper on the end:

Now I can gently sand away those door bangers mentioned in the last post, so they protrude just the right amount (it's too difficult getting them right just by eye) , without damaging the bodyside.